Just like in all forms of racing, we want to go fast!  It’s just human nature.  It’s also human nature to be driven by competition, and wanting to succeed.  In R/C car racing (specifically touring cars) there are numerous classes that are run all over the world, with the main varieties being stock, superstock and modified.

R/C car racing (touring cars) in Brisbane and across Australia has fluctuated somewhat over the past 4 years (since I started racing).  In 2005, number in all classes of touring cars (electric powered EP) were quite high, with numbers around 50+ per club meet in Brisbane.  Obviously, like with anything there are cycles.  And with so many other avenues for people to spend their time and money on, the modified touring car class has taken a severe hit.  Currently, on any given club day in Brisbane, numbers in modified can vary from 1 person to 8, with an average of 3-4.  The numbers across the country seem to fluctuate similarly.  With Melbourne (namely Templestowe aka TFTR) drawing the largest regular mod field (average 8-12 entries per meet).
My question is why are people staying away from modified touring cars?  I sometimes hear and get asked questions in regards to different aspects of racing and running a touring car in modified.  In the interest of my hobby and class, I have decided to put forward some thoughts in regards to some of the issues/questions/myths floating around the pits and other mediums.
Cost involved with running a modified touring car:
This is always going to be a contentious point, as you can spend as much or as little as you would like or one’s budget permits.
Batteries/Motors
Realistically, in modified with the event of lipo batteries and brushless motors, the cost has been reduced from the brushed motors and nickel metal hydride battery days.  The cost of having the best batteries to be able to have the power and runtime is no longer required and no longer do you need to carry multiple motors (along with a commutator lathe).  To run modified now, you only need 2 brushless motors and 2 lipo batteries.
Electronic Speed Controllers
With regards to the speed controllers, again with the advent of brushless motors and speed controllers, the initial cost is there.  Most speed controllers average around $300AUD to be able to run modified touring cars.  Yes, you do need to spend a bit extra in this area as you want something that is going to be reliable and can handle the current draw a touring car with modified motors are pulling.
Other than the costs of the electronics to be able to run modified, all other costs associated with entering touring cars (in whatever class you choose) is similiar.
Durability, wear and tear on cars when running modified:
Yes, it is true that running modified touring cars will make the car’s parts (specifically drivetrain and suspension) wear/slop out more rapidly.  But race a car in any class that is given more speed and power, and of course durability, wear and tear will be increased.  In my personal experience recently, (Xray T2 009) I bought the car second hand and yes, the car had been looked after and only run at 2 events prior to myself.  But in the time that I have had the car (7 months), I have only broken a front spindle carrier and spool outdrive and replaced due to wear 1 front/rear belt.  All other parts are as they came.
Tire wear is excessive when running modified:
Again, this is probably true (and subjective), due to the speed and power of the cars, but just go around and see what the guys are using and ask how long they are using the tires for.  I personally use the tires down to canvass (no rubber left with the belting showing) and/or holes in the tires.  This is normally upto 30+ runs.  A perfect example of this was at my last race meet, a person commented that they would never run their tires in the condition I had just run mine in, and I had been running tires like that for the entire meet (holes showing in tires).
Cars are too fast to drive/control:
Like with anything we race, it is all about practice, practice, practice.  Once you race modified and learn to drive differently and take different lines around the track, it will become ‘normal’.  But that’s not to say that if you ran a 2.5t brushless motor around a track of any size that it would be controllable..Of course everything has its limits.  I personally run either a 4.0t or 4.5t motor depending of the size of the track and the level of grip available.  It’s no good running a 4.0t motor on a small or medium track that has little grip, you will just be wheel spinning around the track and wondering why your car is not handling or your tires are all shiny and hard after your run.
My preferences are: large/medium tracks with decent levels of grip 4.0t and small/medium tracks or low grip tracks (dirty/loose) use 4.5t motor (with lipos).
Maintenance is too high:
This will depend on the make of the car and also a few variables (driving style/track/event).  Obvious items that require attention (regardless of the model) are: Diffs and shocks.  These are the key items to having a sound handling touring car, especially in modified.  There are many build guides or blueprinting of diffs out there for various cars.  The one thing they all have in common is the lubricant used (either AE or Schumacher diff lube).  The other critical aspect is the shocks.  They are what keeps the wheels/tires in constant contact with the ground.  All shocks need to be rebuilt on a regular basis.  Once the shock becomes gritty and loses its given amount of rebound, the handling of the car will change dramatically.
Modified racers don’t to share setups or help out:
I have heard this many a time and over many different mediums.  It is the 99:1 rule.  We always remember the one bad experience and forget the other ninety-nine good ones.  I am certain that the modified racers in Brisbane are only more than happy to help anyone out with setups/advice.  It is like I stated at the beginning of this, we have a desire to go fast and to race one another.  It is no fun when one person laps the field every race meet.  I for one do not see the challenge in that, hence why I am always happy to help out with sharing setups/advice.
There are many different aspects to setup ranging from suspension geometry, electronic tuning, radio setup to tire/insert choice.  From my personal findings, there is no one correct setup or rule.  It’s a matter of personal preference and driving style.  A great example of this is if someone who races at Brendale and copies a setup from a professional racer in the USA who drives the same make/model of car.  Yes, the cars are exactly the same and yes, both are running modified and using rubber tires, but the key differences are track design/traction levels and driving style.  Typically, tracks in the USA are tighter and smaller than most places, they also have higher grip levels usually.  Having tracks as such requires a car to be setup accordingly, usually the setups allow for far greater corner rotation than what is required on our tracks.  The other variable mentioned is driving style, there are 2 main types, hard in, brake, hard out (point to point driving) and roll in, roll out (smooth apex driver).  The 2 types require differently setup cars.
As you can see there are many facets of modified racing, just like any other class.  Hopefully, some of the questions have been answered and if you have any other questions in regards to running modified, please post and ask away.  I am sure the modified racers (even the ex QLD’ers) will provide an answer.  I have included a generic setup guide that was written by Todd Hodge (Losi) which applies to any make/model of car.
Hopefully, this will help the modified touring car class grow and thrive in numbers.